Year:
2006
Make/Model:
Honda Zoomer / Euro Spec - 4v PGMFI
Pictures:
Mods list:
- All decals removed.
- Shaved front indicators mounts.
- Side reflectors removed and LED indicators fitted to where side reflectors used to be.
- Rear light cluster removed and frame shaved.
- R1 taillight (with indicators built in) fitted to underside of seat.
- 9x3 Number plate mounted to rear frame. (UK law says it has to be central)
- Lowered seat frame (sickspeed).
- New handlebar set up (low handlebars / stem)
- Bar end mirrors.
- CNC style coolant reservior.
- Axle spools.
- PWJDM washer dress up kit
- CNC style Frame caps
- Polini CDI (currently bypassed).
- Mallosi variator.
- Front and rear mud guards removed.
- TRS headlight lowering brackets
- Trailtech Speedo
- NCY rear shock
- Airbox delete (OZG style)
- Adelin low down front shocks
- Low profile front tyre
- 12x5 DWT mini fatty rear wheel.
- Center kickstand removed and replaced with buzetti side stand (cut down due to lowered suspension)
- Mojo skinny 8” stretch.
- Takegawa monkey bike 12x3.5 front wheel.
- Adelin Front disk conversion.
- JDM Yoshi.
- Custom rear number plate mount.
- Blade front fender.
Future updates:
- I’m not getting rid of it so one day I’ll have to go electric.
Misc:
- It’s my daily, and I have young kids, so don’t get many opportunities to take it out of action to do the bigger mods.
- #teamfloorboard
- I’m at 20,000 miles on the original GET engine.
4 Likes
Lockdown has meant I’ve had time to take the bike off the road. Brakes upgraded…
Honda controls shaved and matching adelin levers put on.
To note:
that is a 12x3.5 takegawa monkey bike wheel. It has a circa 12mm offset.
The hub is a monkey hub one, with the trs disc adaptor.
They are adelin low down shocks.
I swapped the disk side as it meant I didn’t have to pack the
Caliper bracket. I would have needed 18mm of packing on the other side otherwise which seemed to much.
The monkey hub is 98mm wide (at axle location).
The distance between the forks CL is 182mm. Depending which way you put the shocks they have different distances from shock face to CL (axle space).
Here’s some of my notes if it helps:
Monkey set up - is what I have done.
Own set up - is measurements for custom wheel with Caliper on correct side and no spacing (need a negative 10 offset wheel).
I used this method to bleed the brakes and it worked straight away. Took 15 mins.
Mojo 8” skinny stretch fitted.
For those stretching a zoomer.
- There is a lot more wires than on a ruckus. So they need to be extended. Buy a second harness and cut and shut it. Then all the colours and gauges are correct. Rerouting a few things meant this 8” stretch didn’t need the harness extending. But it’s mm close so I will extend it at some point anyway.
- the coil bracket is in the way of the mojo mount. You need to cut the middle and the angled side bits of the bracket off. It’s massively over engineered for holding a coil anyway.
The rest is mostly the same.
Just need to sort a 12x5 rear wheel now.
Nice, is your’s fuel injected?
Yeah, it’s a euro spec. 4v PGMFI. Lots of wires!
PGMFI is a programmed digital Fuel injection. No jetting required! But harder to tune.
Looks great. I see you have bypassed the Polini CDI, is that for reliability reasons ?
The Zoomer I have came fitted with a Polini CDI but I ditched it as it was causing stalling snd starting issues, it did get the speed up to 40+mph though.
Fitted the only alternative which is a Kitaco iMap but frankly not convinced that’s doing anything much, top speed now is 35mph on a good day.
Yeah, the cdi just gave me problems, so I left it in place but by passed it (you just have to swap two wires).
Fastest I have got is 47 downhill with a run up and a tail wind!!! Normal is 35 to 40. But to be honest this is my daily commuter and I can’t go faster than 30ish with the city traffic anyway.
Some old photos I found of the zoomer through the stages…
As I bought it:
Front indicators moved / replaced:
Ducktail cut off:
Boatian 125 front fender, Lowered seat, R1 tail light and Handlebars lowered (stock speedo):
Side stand:
CNC coolant tank, Low down shocks, lowered headlights, trail tech speedo and front fender removed:
Low profile front tyre, 10x5 dwt mini fatty on rear, and rear fender removed:
I rode it a long time like this, probably my favourite stage in terms of riding. Low and short:
Mojo stretch on:
The Polini CDI seems to be a basket case for everyone, bizarre that it was released at all with the issues it had.
Can I ask what roller/slider weights you are using in the variator ? I’m swapping about just now trying to get a decent combination. Is your clutch stock or have you fitted after market contra springs etc.
Do you have any issues with damp weather riding following the deletion of the stock airbox. I was always advised this was not a good idea due to our climate.
Apologies for all the questions but it’s so difficult finding people who have experience with FI Zoomers, it’s usually the import carb versions they have.
Thanks again 
I can’t remember if I have 5.5s in or a mix of 5s and 6s. But that was the last I tested and found no difference between them.
I’m on stock clutch. From what I’ve read there is little benefit in changing.
I tried the classic hose and uncovered k&n filter but it bogged down and was too noisy, and I was worried about the rain. From what I have read since, my hose would have been too long. Should be cut here:
I then used the OZG style hose and covered doppler filter…
Photo is one of OZGs engines.
It’s a Doppler filter with a 32mm id 120degree hose. You have to mod the filter slightly to fit the tube. Also you need a metal or carbon tube to clamp the hose down on to.
The Doppler doesn’t let water in. It only comes with a really thin filter so I did buy some thicker filter foam and cut some by hand to replace what it came with.
But I’m actually back on the stock airbox at the moment as I think I get better performance out of it. Probably because I haven’t swapped the exhaust.
Thanks very much for the info, I think I’ll just leave the stock air box alone. Going to fit 5.5g sliders as soon as an NCY Drive Face arrives, they are suppose to improve take off so we’ll see…
Now I just need someone to release a reliable and effective CDI unit (ie a Polini without the bugs) and I’ll be happy
New blade front fender. No more rain in face!
Well, other than it came off on second run! Not enough space between tyre and triple tree!!! Got sandwiches between and flung off. Need a smaller tyre!
2 Likes
Yoshi fitted. It’s too loud. Probably going to swap back to stock until I can find a decent baffle. Suggestions welcome…
2 Likes
Next project was number plate mount.
UK law says it must central. Must be of set size and shape. And be lit.
I was running it on the rear frame like this (not a legal size plate):
But since stretching, it clashes with the shock mount And also the change in wheel location means I can’t fit the legal size plate on when getting the MoT.
So finally got round to making my hugger mount.
I created a cardboard template (or 3):
Altered it slightly so that I could center it.
Then I drew it up in CAD and got a local laser cutter guy to cut it out for me:
Now bent and mocked up, still need to paint then lengthen the light, but looks good to go and I can at least run a legal sized plate when I need to…
3 Likes
Finally got hold of a 12x5.
Bought a white dio hub, stripped the paint and polished it (by no means perfect as I used wire brush to get the paint off - too harsh!).
Michelin City grip 2 130/70-12 tyre on the rear. Also swapped to a matching city grip 110/70-12 on the front, so now the fender fits!!!
Anyone looking for a cheap hub. I didn’t order a ‘ruckus’ one.
I ordered SYM Fiddle 50 / Mio 50 hub. It’s the same.
The part number is 42610-M7Q-000 the two letters after that e.g. WA is the colour code.
I bought the white one as it was cheapest and I knew I was going to remove the paint and polish it anyway.
2 Likes
Made myself a custom tree clamp plate:
3 Likes
