Year: 2003 / 2020
Make/Model: Honda Metropolitan / Ecooter E1R Donorr
Pictures:
Mods list:
Future updates:
Misc:
So I bought another bike. It’s an electric bike with cvt type arm as opposed to a hub.
The bike:
I’m thinking I can just transplant the whole engine and wiring loom in to one of my bikes. Only really having to design an engine mount and hub.
Would be a lot of work, and I’m not sure when I’ll get time so won’t start til I’m sure about how and if it will work.
But before I start designing stuff, I need to work out which bike I swap it in to?
The Zoomer The Zoomer
The Met The Met
It should be a good swap as it’s a cvt style with single shock. Similar to the ruckus. It has the motor where the engine would be. It has a read disk brake. And a seperate rear wheel rather than a motor hub. So if I create the right hub I can put any wheel on it.
I plan to make a 4/110 hub so that I can use gy6 style DWT wheels.
It is a bottom mount engine though. So GET and GY6 mounts won’t work. Need to design myself a pcx style mount.
Need to get the bike running before I do anything. I bought it as spares or repair. It won’t drive as it has a broken belt.
Have taken the cover off to find the belt type. It’s a HTD 912-8M-30 belt.
Have ordered one.
Bike seems to run now that the cvt case isn’t locked up by the broken belt. Think this bike was a bargain.
Next step after getting it running is to get dimensions in order to design the engine mount and hub.
These are photos of the motor - (not my photos).
You can see it’s a bottom mount case. I did first wonder if I could flip it upside down and then reverse the motor somehow. But that would mean the swingarm was on the other side and the shock mount was on the bottom. Think it’s better to create my own mount.
Dimensions
Offset:
The engine mounting point is 192mm wide. Looking at it, it’s mounted centrally. There is. Tube along this which I’m assuming I can cut out and have the frame internal to the 20mm thk plates either side. So 152mm between.
Wheel size 12x2.75. Putting a laser down the centreline the hub face is central, so it must be a 0 offset wheel.
There is about 2” of space to the swingarm for the backspace of a wheel.
So to fit a 3” backspace wheel, a 1” hub will be needed.
A hub will be needed anyway as the PCD is 3x70. I’m gonna look to design this with a 4/110 fitment so I can use gy6 wheels.
A 12” wheel is needed to clear the rear disk hub. So let’s say I go with a 12x7 3+4 offset.
Then the engine needs to be moved left 1” to account for the hub thickness. Then another 0.5” to account for a 7” wide wheel. So the engine needs to be moved to the left by 1.5”.
If I put it on the Met, I think I’d only want a 5” wide wheel. But 12x5 wheels are a nightmare to get hold of in the UK.
But using one would mean that the engine only needs to be offset 0.5”. 1” for the hub and then back 0.5” for the 5” wheel.
Front to back:
Mount to wheel axle: 16”
Case length (not including mounting point): 450mm
The wheel centre to engine mount on a ruckus is about 400mm so similar. But on a GET engine the mounting point is about 3” above cvt horizontal centreline. On the ecooter it’s about 2” down from centreline.
So if I put it on the met, the mounting point should be in the same place as stock, just 5” lower. If I put it on thw zoomer, it should be about 8” back and 5” lower.
Either way it’s gonna need a Tokyo parts style bottom mount type bracket.
I plan to model and 3D print everything to test fit before I get anything CNCd.
Hub first. Should be fairly straight forward…
Work in progress…
Gonna design it for the Met first. Then if I want it on the Zoomer I’ve just got to pull the mount point back about 8”.
Forgot to say, I got a new belt put on the electric bike and it’s all back up and running. So can take apart whenever now.
It’s got 2 modes, 50cc mode and 125cc mode. Both are instant power unlike the GET engines!!! They just limit the top speed is all.
I’ve taken the dash apart and you don’t need it for the bike to run work, so that’s good. You just need to button to start it.
Can’t wait to see it all finished!
Hopefully this is one that I can finish!! I fear taking one of my bikes apart and not being able to complete it! Shame zoomers are so expensive here otherwise I’d buy another to do this to.
So before I start, I need to check if the wheels will fit. There is 240mm radius for the wheel to work, so the diameter including tyre needs to be less than 480mm to work.
Willtheyfit.com to the rescue…
So tyre choice will be key.
And actually the calliper takes up to 135mm radius. So 270 dia. So greater than a 10” wheel. It’s gonna have to be a 12” wheel. That means I want another 12x5 which are impossible to get hold of in the uk.
Managed to work out how to take off the front panel.
Wires had been ripped off the horn, so fixed that and replaced the bent brake lever. Do actually the bike is back together in its own right, so gonna put it through an MoT to make sure it’s all good.
Interestingly the bike has a gps unit with a SIM card so gonna replace that and see what happens too.
Struggling to find a wheel that suits though. The 12x5s are hard to get and a bigger PCD than I want - the hub will clash with calliper so need a 4/110 ideally. wondering if I can get a 6” wide wheel on the Met without cutting the plastics. 12x6 3+3 could be good - but can’t find them either!
Man, I really want to get my hands on one of these engines/ or a whole bike so I can try to put it into a Ruckus. I don’t know if you’ve considered the design or not, but have you looked at a the Zuma 125 Chimera mount for the Ruckus? It’s a bottom mount and simple in comparison to the TP design.
Yeah, I looked at that mount, but it has two connections to the motor which gives it a fixed point, so that it only pivots at the frame connection. The ecooter motor only has one connection point, so would pivot there, being unstable if there was more than one pivot point. Connecting the mount back to two points of the frame like the to mount means it’s fixed and so pibotyong at the motor is ok.
I haven’t done any more on this yet. Need a wheel first and haven’t decided on one yet - doesn’t seem to be any good fits. Might end up with a 12x4.5 monkey wheel… not as wide as I want but might work.
You could lock the Chimera mount in place with a two bars with spherical bearing on the ends and mount them to another point on the frame to lock the mount in place so it docent move similar to how RAT KOUBOU dose with their Zuma/PCX mount. Ill see if I can get a photo or two from a builder here.
A small update, but swapped the electronic throttle for a traditional cable throttle with a potentiometer.
https://a.aliexpress.com/_EII40Rx
The original throttle was sticking, this feels nicer, and will make it easier to do the swap in the future.
Still trying to sort wheels!
Useful link I found when looking for 12x5 alternatives in the UK:
https://www.mini-forum.de/article/33-12-alloy-rims/
Think I’m just going to go for a 12x4.5 monkey bike wheel, it’s not as wide as I want, but as it’s reversible so have more chance of getting the offset to work. From when I was working on my Zoomer front wheel, I think they have a 1/4” offset.
Hmm. So I just bought another one. Again, it’s a non runner, but it was insanely cheap. And these are few and far between in the UK, so even if it’s just for parts I’m happy - or if I get it working then I could eventually convert both the Zoomer and the Met!!
Ecooter E2 this time…
Don’t know if it’s a city or a sport. So could be a 50cc or 125 equivalent. The E1 is both (it has a button to swap between the two).
I’ve got to do something with one of them now!
Yeah, I really want to have one of these imported to the US, Not the whole bike of course but it be nice to have the motor/swing arm, controller, and all the parts that go with it except for the frame. I was wanting to do an electric conversion because it’s not popular here in the US and I feel it would be really cool and worth the time. FLP is making a kit but it’s still too expensive to justify, for me it is. (I’m sure it’s amazing but just not for me)
